Day 10 Sunday June 5 – Red Fern Rapids Launch Point to Sand Cabin Bay on Eutsuk Lake

May 25, 2016

• Wake Up Time: 3:00 am


• Departure Time: 4:30 am


• Distance Paddled: 32 kms (Total: 236)


• Total Paddling Time: 7 hrs


• Weather Conditions: Very Good

We decided to wake up even earlier than before because, as I mentioned previously, we really needed to concern ourselves with wind and water conditions at this stage of the trip. Again, this part of the circuit can be extremely windy. Therefore, we wanted to take full advantage of the usual early morning calmness.

This is going to be a kick ass day. Portage? What portage? We pretty much forgot about the hardships of the portaging after this day.

After packing up and breakfast we got all of the rest of our gear down to the launch point 200 meters from the weather station and got going pretty quick. The first thing I noticed after paddling for about ten minutes is that I still felt quite tired. I didn't get a good sleep the night before. We actually hit a small section on Eutsuk Lake where we noticed a bit of a current going against us but it was for a very short time and we were back to our usual 5 - 6 kms per hour. I soon forgot how tired I was when we started getting the most incredible views of the entire journey so far.

Look at that water. A paddler's dream day.

Just a quick note. Our paddling strength really started to kick in here. I guess we developed quite a bit of strength in our upper bodies after paddling over 200 kms and working through a very tough portage. We were starting to move these boats like they were small tug boats and now able to maintain a strong pace for a very long time.

I also noticed that my paddling technique had improved immensely. I began to realize that, by keeping my elbows a little closer to my body and not reaching so far in front of me with the paddles, I could achieve a stronger stroke of the paddle and get the kayak moving faster and more smoothly with a lot less effort. I was now in state of paddling zen. My mind was almost void of thought other than to absorb the pristine wilderness. I was no long labouring to paddle but, rather, simply enjoying my surroundings. Meanwhile the kayak was moving faster. Funny how that happens. I think that, at this point of the journey, we were actually averaging about 1 km per hour faster than in the first stage. When you're talking about paddling, that is a big difference.

Even while camping I realized that I was no longer thinking about the fact that I was wilderness camping. I was simply existing in my environment. It's a strange feeling actually because, every once in while, you catch yourself and realize that you are now just living in the wild and it's become just normal. That's an achievement onto itself. It takes some time to get there but, when you do get there, you feel like you're living life on a different level.

Again, the loons started their early morning serenade. The sound of the loons echoed for long distances across this massive lake and then the grandeur of the coastal mountain range began to appear right in front of us. We could see these mountains from Jim Smith Point a few days back, but they were so far off into the distance. However, this morning they were right in front of us, capped with glaciers and all, towering over us as majestic as one can imagine. This is what I think of when I think of British Columbia. We were at the northern part of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park. I felt like I had finally arrived. The forests in this area were much greener (not as afflicted by the pine beetle or fires).

For me this was a turning point. The next two days would seem like a dreamland. The weather and water conditions would be perfect. The universe was aligned perfectly for us. It was as if the wilderness was saying to us: “You've paid my price, now I'll give you safe passage. Enjoy the rest of your journey”. Until we got back onto Ootsa Lake a couple of days later, just before we were finishing the trip, the wilderness then said to us: “Before you go, let me remind you that you are not in control! I'll let you go this time.” A large storm front chased us back to Little Andrews Bay. Respect!

We reached our destination 32 kms away at a beautiful sandy beach in Sand Cabin Bay. It was like an oasis really. However, you always need to be prepared to take what the wilderness delivers you. With such beauty I always believe that you have to pay some price to get it. For instance, the price we paid to get around the rapids. But it was all worth it. On this day, the price of camping at such a beautiful beach was ants that bit like a bugger. Millions of them. In the wild country of Canada you can get mosquitoes, black flies, horse flies, ants... It's a beautiful country indeed but you have to accept the various little discomforts that come with it. In my mind, a small price of admission. Believe it or not, when you get used to being in the wild, these things eventually become incidental.

The campsite itself was actually a designated forestry campground. It had an outhouse, fire pit, picnic table, and a proper bear cache container. Five star luxuries really. We figured out that we could minimize the amount of ants in our pants by sitting on our camp chairs and putting our feet up on the bench of the picnic table. We also discovered that there were a lot less of them on the beach closer to the water.

Frank found a pair of pink undies in the bear cache. They made great kindling to get the fire started.

I discovered that my good camera (the Canon) got wet in my Kayak kilt (i.e. I don't like calling it a skirt). It seemed to be working ok but it was making funny noises too. Also the viewing screen was all fogged up. So I started to think that I might have damaged it permanently. The battery compartment with the memory card got wet. So, I opened it up, took the battery and memory card out and let the stuff sit in the sun for a while. It took quite a while for the viewing screen to clear up. I tried turning the camera on a couple of times later that day but it was still making that funny noise. Anyway, Maria suggested I just let it sit for a day and not turn it on. So, I just put it away. It would end up working just fine tomorrow.

This 32 km paddle today actually seemed trivial after what we had gone through so far. Just another great day.